Gemstones

(By Dermot)We say goodbye to Thora and Pohn who head back to Phnom Penh.

We leave Tbeang Meanchey for Tram Proung, we have Mr Sim as our new driver and Votha our gemstone guide. Votha is Cambodian, speaks fluent English, and is formerly a gem miner and dealer. He now works as a guide especially for the Thai Gemmological Association.

We are all a bit subdued today after the build and generally plug in the headphones and tune out.

Driving in Cambodia is essentially driving down the middle of the road giving a wide berth to motorbikes, ladened motorbikes carrying families, two adults two kids, bikes with 10 mattresses, piglets in baskets, 6ft planks of wood, bags of taro, vegetables, chicken, dozens of live chickens held upside down by the pillion passenger, pots and pans..., just when you think you’ve seen it all on a motorbike another one pops into view.  Cattle regularly and slowly cross the road, as do laconic dogs. Small children must be avoided, and of course, so must the oncoming traffic, which also happens to be in the middle of the road dodging motorbikes, laden motorbikes, etc ....

Bovine Traffic

 After about ninety minutes we arrive in Tram Proung.  Votha introduces us to Mr Leko a local gem merchant. In his little street stand he has some cut stones including local zircons, which are our target. He also has tektites.  We wander a little further down the street to get coffee in what might loosely be called a cafe, adjacent to Mr Phoun, also a gem cutter and dealer. Shortly, both dealers arrive at our table bearing rough and some cut zircons. Paula and I examine them on a light and choose a few. Every so often one or other dealer brings out a bigger stone, and eventually Mr Leko produces some very lustrous, brownish, red faceted stones. He takes one to a gas burner and heats it.  It turns perfectly clear producing a white lustrous zircon. He also produces several small sapphires.  None are of gem quality.  Rory takes a shine to a small barrel-shaped, pale blue, crystal fragment, the owner wants $60 – totally outrageous. I offer $5 for all the sapphires, which is promptly rejected. Mr Votha agrees the price is outrageous. I also select three carved tektites. So, the negotiations begin.  Votha suggests it is good form to buy from both men and the dealer should have the last bid. If he stays his price it is ok to stop bidding, but he must be afforded the chance to meet the bid.  Fortunately, Paula and I have selected material from both. The large stones from Mr Leko are about $6 per carat and the smaller $2.50.  Paula goes first and cuts the overall price down considerably. I follow and also reduce these rates.  As well as my purchases for the Museum, I buy three small stones for Susan too.  Next, Mr Phoun. He is not so keen to trade. In the end we reject the sapphires, except for about four crappy ones which Paula buys for analysis. He wants way too much for the carved tektites – about $45 for the lot. We should be able to do better in Ban Lung. We negotiate on 400 grams of rough zircon for $15, Paula takes ²/₃, and I take a third.

Negotiating

After lunch I revisit Mr Leko’s ‘shop’ as he had some nice ladle-like tektites, I buy 5 for $10. Paula and I also each buy a nicely-cut smoky quartz for $5 and I convince him to give me a gift of one of the crystals too. We bow and I make the ‘lotus’, trade completed. It is quite exhausting. Votha tells us: always go slowly.

Making the selection

 It’s quite tiring and exhilarating dealing gemstones. Basically, in this locality they have the upper hand, if you want local stones you have to buy them from these two characters.  Votha assures us we did ok.

So now we head on the 8hrs to Ban Lung. In our own thoughts we watch Cambodia passing by.

Laterite red soilsDry, baked earthYellowing leaves on forest treesLotus flowers in pondsShacksRubber plantationsForest clearing for rubber plantationsCashews, mangoesShack houses, with pigs and chickensEndless stream of motorbikesCambodian people’s party signs, Cambodian Rescue Party and FCC Party signsAngkor Beer signsWater buffalo with egret on its back.

Along the road

Reaching the Mekong at Stung Treng buoys us all. We get out to stretch and watch a laden ferry with about 6 cars depart. I mention that when you hear of overladen ferries sinking we could now be looking at one! Rory continues his quest for a watermelon, to no avail. But we search the shanties for cold beers in their eskies of which there’s only one. We buy 4, not all of them cold. Rors pays about 1.50 for the lot. 

Two little girls tease by saying ‘hello’ while giggling hysterically. We surprise by responding in Cambodian / Khmer! Susan frightens them (hey, she frightens me) they laugh. Susan snaps the giggling girls then shows them and their brother the image. They jump and run around laughing.

"Hello!!"

The warm beers go in the van’s esky and we drag out the cold ones.A truck laden with bricks has slipped into the Mekong and has to be unloaded. Small kids unload the bricks. It’s hot in the sun.

Not the outcome that was planned

The ferry returns and we drive on. Paula and Rors sit on the roof of the ferry drinking beer. Crossing one of the great rivers creates a tingle. It is a life-blood to SE Asia – Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam.

On Board!

We all get back on board energized and slightly silly. We discover Mr Sim is actually called Mr Sin. I suggest his wife is called Jezebel. At least all my sins are original!The road improves dramatically to Ban Lung we are up around 80km/hr slowing rapidly for cows slowly crossing, dogs, small kids and laden motorbikes.On one side of the road is a failed papaya plantation – dry earth with shrivelled trees. No rain until the wet. Near Ban Lung there is a huge area of land being cleared for rubber plantations.

Our abode for the next three nights is called ‘Tree Tops EcoLodge’, a wonderful place on the outskirts of town overlooking the valley. We have separate huts ($12 per night).  It’s the sort of place that would cost a fortune in North Queensland. We can hear gibbons. A funny Jingkok gecko makes a loud barking noise providing entertainment.

Our Cabin

We are all travel-weary and dine in the restaurant balcony overlooking the valley.